Women in the South African Wine Industry
A recent study in America showed that the entire population can be divided into three categories – non-tasters, average tasters and supertasters. All that sets these three groups apart is one solitary gene that could mean the difference between appreciating the delights of caviar and simply thinking it tastes like fish eggs. Being a supertaster means that you are much more attuned to sweetness and bitterness. This small group of people is made up of a majority of women
who are perfectly suited to be either chefs or winemakers.
While such a study might sound like a trumped up way of proving that women, on the whole, have more refined tastes than men, it is undeniable that winemaking is no longer a strict boys club. From winning awards to breaking records, women are not only fast cementing their place in South African winemaking, but are also introducing a unique way of doing things that can only benefit the industry.
The First Woman to Beat the Australians
The Australians are well known for their excellent wines as well as their ability to blend certain types of grapes to create incredible new tastes. In the 1999 TriNations Chardonnay Challenge between South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, very little hope was given to the South African entrants. Experts on the day banked on the more experienced countries of New Zealand and Australia to have a distinct advantage over South Africa’s less revered entrants. But at the end of the day, it was the Warwick entrant from the estate of the same name in Stellenbosch that took home the top prize. The winemaker was none other than Norma Ratcliffe, a Canadian by birth, and the wife of Warwick’s owner. This was only the fledgling winemaker’s third attempt at a wooded chardonnay and her unique fermenting in the bottle technique was a resounding success. Since 1999, Norma has taken the wine making world by storm with her delicate wines that have always stayed true to their roots, despite current trends and fashions. Her expertise is now also put to good use thanks to her appointment to the Cape Independent Winemakers’ Guild – making her the first female member in history.
The First Female Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year
The Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year award is one of the most prestigious titles up for grabs in South Africa. By 1999, the award had never been bestowed upon a woman in its 19 year history. That all changed when Ronell Wiid moved from her nine year stint at Boschendal and became the new winemaker at Hazendal Wine Estate in Stellenbosch. This Durban-born geologist’s maiden vintage at Hazendal was a 1998 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon. While nursing her second son Henry, Ronell cultivated this wine in a mix of old and new oak barrels for a period of 12 months. Made entirely from Hazendal grapes, this wine was entered in amongst stiff competition – 43 other wines all from stellar vineyards and winemakers. Judges from around South Africa and international wine authority Jancis Robertson named Ronell’s wine as the best representation of a true South African blend and with that she became the first woman in history to be named Diner’s Club Winemaker of the year. What makes Ronell’s achievement even more notable was the fact that she also had another wine in 1999’s top ten list. Her 1997 Lanoy made while she was still at Boschendal also received critical acclaim, making her the most awarded winemaker in 1999.
The First Black Female Winemaker
Ntsiki Biyela only had her first taste of wine when she entered university. She has since become the lead winemaker at Stellekaya winery in Stellenbosch. Not only has she undergone an incredible journey to get where she is today, she is also credited with being the very first black female winemaker in South Africa. Growing up in Zululand, Ntsiki led a sheltered and traditional life and had to spend many hours during her time at university cultivating her palette to appreciate new and exotic tastes. Her time at Stellenbosch studying Viticulture and Oenology was not wasted as she quickly learnt the trade. Her passion for winemaking was what set her apart from the rest of the class and by the time she was 26, she was appointed the team leader at Stellekaya winery. Her first batch of wine is currently fermenting in their cellars and will be ready in three years time.
The Future of Women in Winemaking
More and more young women are venturing into winemaking as they realise their talent for it and as the industry itself recognises the incredible things that women have to offer. Winemaking is not all about taste, but requires organisation, patience and structuralism that are inherent traits in many women. Meerendal Wine Estate has just appointed its first female winemaker since Christina Stans, the wife of the original owner on the estate who took over when he died in 1712. As more women enter this field, more incredible innovations and awards can be expected, keeping South Africa on top of the winemaking game.
About the Author
Hazendal Wine Estate is one of Stellenbosch’s oldest estates and is proud to feature a truly excellent female winemaker, Ronell Wiid. Recently taken over and restored by businessman Dr Mark Voloshin, this estate not only produces fine wines, but is a picturesque place to visit.
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